![]() Romer G switches have a shorter actuation depth (quicker key presses), a more damped feel, and a large, centrally-positioned gap for brighter LEDs that are magnified by a lens. The company invested in development of the new “Romer G” switch that debuted in the G910 mechanical keyboard we're reviewing today, primarily boasting greater endurance. We discussed Logitech's new “Romer G” switch solution in full detail at PAX Prime this year. ![]() Logitech decided to stray from these solutions, though it has made use of Cherry in the past. Most major keyboard manufacturers source switches from one of these two companies, including Thermaltake for its Poseidon Z (Kailh) and Rosewill for its Apollo (Cherry). Keyboard switches are one such market: Cherry undoubtedly boasts the largest foothold with its colored MX switches, with Kailh grasping at part of that western stronghold. Logitech's website: 168g w/ cord, 121g w/o.It's rare that we see innovation where suppliers already dominate a market. If I switch to this mouse from my current MX510 then hyperglides will be worth investing in. I'm a little disappointed with how the feet came out. I smoothed the edges of the feet using a dremel with a wire brush. I also make my own mouse feet using pure PTFE from ebay. With this light gone I also removed the G9 button which I had never used anyway. If I ever need to change DPI it only takes a few seconds within the gaming software. I don't care about lights and I only play at 800 dpi. Other parts removed include the two LED light deflectors (one white for the G logo, one gray for the 3 DPI level indicators). It's only 5 grams but the mouse isn't uncomfortable without it. Super glue is now holding that right side teflon foot to the mouse body. Combined the magnets are only a couple grams but there's no use in having them since I won't be opening/closing the door. This door in held in place by two magnets (one on door, one on mouse body). Since the right side of the plate has a teflon foot I decided to keep that Then I cut off most of the door flap on the bottom that goes over the weights. Next I took a dremel to the weight compartment. I think my axel is slightly off center because each revolution has 1 spot that's slightly harder to turn. Feels far from perfect but I don't use the scroll wheel much in games. OEM wheel was too wide, too large of a diameter, axels didn't fit the pin holes, and I needed to shape it such that the blue rubber ring would fit around it. The OEM mouse wheel needed a lot of grinding to fit the G502's plastic housing. So I popped out a scroll wheel from a basic OEM mouse as well as a blue rubber ring from a cheap $2 ebay mouse. I also removed all components dealing with the infinite scroll feature (since I can't do it anyway with this wheel). Couple that with a blue rubber ring from another cheap mouse and we go from 13g to 2g. Cheap OEM wheels (which I have a ton of) are just 1 gram. I had already been using a G500/G700 scroll wheel. So I started out knowing the scroll wheel would have to go. Something Logitech did that I hope more companies start doing is having a teflon piece where the mouse button contacts the micro switch: Everything seems very strategically placed. I started out disassembling the mouse completely. So I decided to cut out (literally) all the G502's features I don't use in order to achieve a lighter mouse. I ended up switching to a similarly modded wheel mouse optical (weighing 62g). I've always loved my G502's shape but I hated the weight.
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